Biking Pune-Great Rann of Kutch-Pune Part II: White Rann, Kalo Dungar, India Bridge, 1962 war memorial

Biking Pune-Great Rann of Kutch-Pune Part I: Pune to Dholavira

Day 4, November 25 (Wednesday)
Dholavira to Hodka (279 km)

We left from Dholavira at around 6am. Woke up Rajan from his slumber to switch on the air compressor and top up air in the punctured tyre so that it will last till Rapar, about 100 km where the nearest possible tyre shop would be available to get a new tyre.

We rode back on the Khadir bet road..couldn't help stopping for another half hour to take pics there,

The White rann where we could actually step inside. And yes, we did taste the salt!

Zombied couple
We reached Rapar at around 9.30am and found an MRF shop, but he did not have the tyre size. After enquiring in 2-3 more smaller shops, we found it in one place. Though the shop owner claimed it was also a tubeless tyre, we were not sure...so we asked him to also put a tube. Finally, we were done by about 11.30am. We had breakfast of batatawada, dabeli, fafda, jalebi at the tyre shop only.

Bye bye Michelin tubeless

We moved on towards Bhuj -about 130 km and halted there for some awesome lunch thali on the highway at around 2pm. After lunch, we visited the Bhujodi village -famous for its textile handicrafts.

Bhujodi -where about 1200 people are engaged in indigenous textile handicrafts including kurtas, traditional kutchhi embroidered dresses, woolen and cotton weaved shawls and dupattas etc.

Vankar Rana Valji weaving a woolen shawl

One of the many shops in the village

After spending about an hour here, we proceeded to Hodka. On the way, we also had to take our permit from Bhirandiyara BSF check post.

The Bhirandiaya post that issues the permit
The permit
Our traditional kutchhi bhunga at Shaam-e-Sarhad resort in Hodka village
The entrance to Shaam-e-Sarhad

Day 5, November 26 (Thursday)
Visit to Kalo Dungar, India Bridge, and 1962 war memorial near Vighakot in the day.
Visit to white rann to see sunset and full moon rise

We left from Shaam-e-Sarhad at around 8.30 am after breakfast for Kalo Dungar -the highest place in Kutch at about 1500 feet above sea level. You have take the same road back to Bhirandiyara check post and take left to Khavda to proceed to Kalo Dungar. The roads are good and it is a good ride. At some places, we stopped to ask the local for directions, in return for which they demanded money. We also gave few rupees to the children who promptly guided us with roads. 

The earlier you reach Kalo Dungar, the more you escape the crowd and see the place in peace. We spent a good hour on the top. 

The ride to Kalo Dungar
The view from Kalo Dungar. Far beyond is the Rann of Kutch that stretches up to Pakistan
On the way back, we met Commandant Sharma of the BSF check post at Kalo Dungar. He stood and front of us and greeted us with "Good afternoon bikers!". We chatted for about 15-20 minutes. He also mentioned that he takes interactive sessions of the visitors to Kalo Dungar with his team-mates at around 11am everyday. We did not wait for it, since we had to go to India Bridge. He suggested to also go ahead till the newly constructed 1962 war memorial near Vighakot. 

The boys with Commandant Sharma, of the BSF check post at Kalo Dungar.

After leaving from Kalo Dungar, you ride towards Kunvar Bet to reach India Bridge. At India Bridge, you need to register your names and vehicle number and show the permit. Upon request, the BSF may or may not allow you to go to the 1962 war memorial, about 12 km ahead of India Bridge. You have to deposit you camera and phones with the BSF guys before visiting the war memorial. 

It was an emotional ride to India Bridge and the war memorial and yet again, we sang 'Saare Jahan se achha' while riding, just like we had at Khardung-La during the Leh ride. We also brought back some sand from the war memorial that we have kept in our home. 


We returned to Shaam-e-Sarhad at around 2pm for lunch. In the evening, we left to see the white desert in Dhordo. We reached there at around 5.30 pm and it was quite crowded. 

The ride to Dhordo white rann
After sunset as it started getting dark, the crowd started to disappear and that is when we enjoyed the most. 

The White Rann

Sun setting on the white rann

After sunset

Full moon rise in the white Rann.
After having spent about 4 hours in the white desert, we returned to Shaam-e-Sarhad at around 9.30pm. 

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